The Basque Region Scene
The Basque country is a wonderful combination of sunny coastal beaches with a laid-back atmosphere (leading it to be called the Southern California of France) and the rugged hills of the Pyrenees mountains, with its hearty and independent people.
The borders of Basque Country have been determined by nature herself: The Pyrenees Mountains to the south and east, the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the River Bayonne to the north. The Basque Country is a pastiche of small towns, many of them in the mountains, a few cities, most of them near the Atlantic coast, rocky hillsides and sandy beaches.
We consider the Spanish seaside towns of San Sebastian and Bilbao and the up-country city of Pamplona keys parts of the Basque region, since visitors will, inevitably, go to San Sebastian to shop and tapas bar hop, head to Bilbao to see the now 10-year-old Guggenheim Museum and perhaps venture to Pamplona, maybe even during the “running of the bulls”! About 2/3 of the Basque Country lies in Spain and 1/3 in France.
Though smaller in size, the French part of the Basque Country features three knockout beachside towns: tony Biarritz with its fun surfing scene, the fishing port of St. Jean de Luz and medieval Bayonne.
What is the heart and soul of the Basque country, for so long a “land between countries,” lying as it does in both the south of France and the north of Spain?
“The Basque country knows the sound of its ancestors voices just the way they used to be. It has been living on the stones, silent witnesses of the mountains, who never invite anyone, but never deny its haven to the homeless who come to her hoping for a decent life,” Daniela Ordnung wrote recently. “These tough people, hard on the outside and sweet as a juicy fruit on the inside, are the ever unknown and fascinating Basques. And that is the Basque people’s outstanding feature: (once you crack what may seem like a hard exterior, you’ll find) they are incredibly alive.”
It is this mix of contrasts of carefree surfers and beachcombers along the ocean and harder-to-get-to-know mountain people that make this region have an authenticity that is hard to beat. Scratch beneath the surface and get to know a Basque or two during a stay here and you’ll be glad you did, since they live life to its fullest.
While this may sound like hyperbole, it is the contrasts of the culture between the French and Spanish (melded together nicely over centuries) and the differences in geography from those who fish the sea and those who tend herds in its mountains that make the region so unique.
Throughout the area, the picturesque sea and mountain landscape and the rare beauty of the light have inspired artists of all kinds, and continue to do so today.
Yet ther
e is more to this region than its beaches, mountains and art. During your stay you’ll want to wander in the food markets and dine in local restaurants to experience the hearty Basque cuisine, especially its seafood. The proximity of the Atlantic Ocean inspires bouillabaisse (a robust stew made with tomatoes, saffron and several varieties of fish and shellfish). Tapas (the Spanish version of appetizers on steroids,) and the hard cider from the hills are other specialties of the area.
Foodies take note: there are more Michelin starred restaurants in the Basque region than anywhere else in the world!
So splash (or surf) in the ocean, hike in the Basque mountains of the Pyrenees; taste its caught-today seafood or its incomparable Bayonne hams, and take a step back into time where life is simpler, purer, and more authentic.
Whether you are an art lover, a foodie, a surfer or a hiker, you will find plenty to enjoy in Basque Country. The beauty of A Season Away is that your time is your own. Take a picnic out into the countryside or plan a special evening out at a gourmet restaurant with a special vintage wine. With your own “home base” you will be perfectly set up to explore the surrounding area at your own pace.
