Biarritz Profile

Biarritz: France’s “West Coast” seaside chic

Situated in the very southwest of France and northern Spain, the principal cities of the Basque region include Biarritz, Bayonne, Anglet and St. Jean de Luz along the Atlantic coast in France and San Sebastian and Bilbao in northern Spain.

The Biarritz area is a wonderful combination of sunny coastal beaches with a laid-back atmosphere (leading it to be called the Southern California of France) and the rugged hills of the Pyrenees Mountains, with its hearty and independent people. 

It is this mix of contrasts of carefree surfers and beachcombers along the ocean and harder-to-get-to-know mountain people that make this region have an authenticity that is hard to beat. The crown jewel of the French side (and many argue of much of the entire Basque Country) is Biarritz.

Biarritz became famous in the 19th century when Empress Eugenie (the wife of Napoleon III) fell in love with this part of the Basque country and built a Palace on the beach (which is now the world class Hotel du Palais) and a center with natural springs at Eugenie les Bains.

Subsequently, the beach resort became popular with aristocracy from all over Europe:

• Queen Victoria came here regularly over a period of 30 years
• Edward VI stayed in the Hotel du Palais days before his death and in the 1930s
• Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson were regular visitors
• Until the revolution in 1917, the Russian nobility wintered here and built the magnificent Orthodox Church next to the Palace.

However, the days of being reserved for high society are long gone and today Biarritz, with a year-round population of 27,000 that swells to about 150,000 in the height of summer, is an affordable, vibrant and cosmopolitan town with magnificent beaches.

The town has great sporting facilities including excellent golf courses, imported by the British during the aristocratic days, and the best surfing in France. The French say that if Ile de Re (further north off the Atlantic Coast) is France’s Nantucket Island, then Biarritz is its Southern California.

The city has the casual elegance of a chic beach resort, intertwined with the practical mindset of the Basque people.

As with much of the rest of France, food reigns supreme, particularly based on the “fruits de mer” (fruits of the sea) – its seafood. Below we list a number of terrific restaurants, most of them open year-round.

Biarritz and the Basque Country is a perfect base for a multi-week villa or apartment stay with A Season Away so you and your family and friends can live like a local!

Special Interest

Biarritz is steeped in the surfing culture and is considered to be the surfing Mecca of Europe. Surfing has become a symbol for Biarritz and the Basque Coast and there are numerous surf schools that offer lessons; the main surfing spot is at Grand Plage. Long board surfers should head to Côte des Basques.

Golf has also reached legendary standards with greens spread around the town offering first-rate facilities and an exceptional setting.

A long tradition of marine benefits to health and beauty (thalassotherapy) has created a spa environment in Biarritz and the Thalassa institute at the Hôtel Miramar and the Thermal Seawater Baths of Biarritz offer a wide variety of care, in high quality settings.

Sightseeing

• The views of the Atlantic Ocean waves crashing down from the Plateau de l’Atalaye are dramatic. This is the promontory where whale watchers used to look out for migrating whales, an important part of the Basque seaside economy for generations. Make sure you see the statue of the Virgin Mary on the cliffs and the nearby Place St. Eugenie and the old fishing port of Port des Pecheurs.
• Eglise Alexandre Newsky is the Russian orthodox church that seems out of place on the Atlantic Ocean. But as noted above, before the Russian Revolution of 1917, the Russian aristocracy spent winters in Biarritz.
• The Biarritz Museum of the Sea (also called the Biarritz Marine Museum) has 24 aquariums rife with sharks, dolphins, seals, and other marine life.
• Dune du Pilat near Biarritz is the biggest sand dune in Europe. The view from the top is spectacular, especially at sunset. Be warned, however, that the 190-step wooden stairway leading up to the top is not for the fainthearted. The immense mountain of sand pops out of nowhere. From the top, visitors see an incomparable view of the sea and an endless string of beaches.

Restaurants

(There are dozens and dozens of restaurants in Biarritz and many more in the surrounding Basque Country. In fact, there are more Michelin starred restaurants in the Basque Country than just about anywhere else in the Michelin Guide system, making this a perfect hangout for “foodies.”)

Here is a brief selection of restaurants in Biarritz:

• Bistrot de l'Huître, tucked off a bit behind and to the side of the Biarritz Casino this is a fun little spot to sit and have oysters down by the Grande Plage, the main beach in Biarritz.
• Bar Jean, this small (and often quite crowded) bistro is located right next to the Halles de Biarritz (food market) and is a great place to stop and have a morning coffee, a glass of wine & some tapas at the bar or lunch out on their tiny terrace. A place to see and be seen.
• Chez Albert, a Biarritz institution, located in the old fisherman’s port. Locals and visitors alike find themselves elbow deep in shellfish platters. The strawberry tart is their signature dessert and their house wine, a Pouyanne, is quite nice.
• Restaurant Le Caritz, owned by Pascal Ondarts, a famous French Rugby player. The restaurant has a great outdoor terrace with ocean view, a pleasing indoor dining room, a casual relaxed atmosphere and good food.
• Restaurant l'Opale, restaurant/lounge with contemporary cuisine, modern décor and a great outdoor terrace with a view overlooking the Grande Plage and the Hotel du Palais.
• Bar du Jardin, a preferred lunch spot for the locals. Nothing fancy, just a local bistro with a sunny terrace a good plat du jour made with fresh products, homemade desserts.
• Baleak, one of the nicer, hip restaurants near the Biarritz market (Les Halles). Exposed brick walls décor with open kitchen and contemporary cuisine.
• La Tantina de Burgos, this is a favorite eatery for the locals. Reserve your table, come a bit early and have a drink at the bar before dinner. The open kitchen turns out good steaks and fresh fish. The plain wooden tables fill up fast and the atmosphere is jovial.