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Though not well known as a region, it is better known by two of its towns, St. Remy, where Van Gogh was hospitalized and now where jet-setters buy their Provencal fabrics and Santon dolls, and Les Baux, carved into the hills for protection. But to really feel like a local, sit in one of the outdoor cafes in front of the church in Maussane-les-Alpilles, one of the unspoiled, unhurried towns in this part of Provence. Their Thursday market is small, but terrific and their olive oil rivals that of its northern neighbors in Nyons as among the best in France.

