Lucca Profile
Italian nobles and European travellers have marvelled at the Lucca region of northern Tuscany for hundreds of years, building some of the mo
st amazing summer residences in all of Italy here.
Lucca is a marvellous, medium-sized city of about 90,000, surrounded by 4 kilometers of fortress walls so thick that today you can ride bikes, walk and eat at restaurants perched on top! The perspective you get of the city within from the ramparts is telling of the days when fortified cities in Europe were the norm to keep out invaders.
Originally a Roman city (you can go into one if the city’s piazza’s and see its circular shape from when it was a colisseum), Lucca was later the capital of Tuscany.
Besides Lucca, the region surrounding it offers beauties of its own, from being close to the chic seaside towns of Forte di Marmi, Camaiore and Viareggio (30 minutes away), to Pisa (30 minutes away), with its leaning tower, from Carrera, where some of the highest quality marble has been mined since the days of Michelangelo, to the five seaside towns of the Cinque Terre.
With Lucca as a home base, you’ll feel a part of Italian life and centuries of culture. Yet you also can choose to seek out the wonderful cities of Florence and Siena, to wander the centuries-old monuments and museums and sample Tuscan food. Lucca is about 1 hour 15 minutes by train from Florence and about 2 hours by car from Siena. You also can take a leisurely drive into the Chianti area, with its small villages and excellent wines.
Lucca's streets are lined with elegant shops and charming restaurants. Its important university, University of Lucca, gives it a youthful appearance and an outstanding antiques market is held on the last weekend of each month. What we like most about Lucca is its manageable size. It has one of the highest concentrations of bikes of any city in Italy; it is easy to ride from one side of the city walls to the other in about 5 minutes. Not as big as Florence, nor as hilly as Siena, Lucca is just the right size for an extended stay because it’s large enough to have lots going on, but small enough that you can get to know it well!
Lucca has always been a prosperous place, with money made in trading, knitwear and what is purported to be among the finest olive oil in the world, the so-called “green gold.” Because of this prosperity, mild climate for being near the sea (30 minutes away,) Lucca has some of the most magnificent villas and gardens you can tour in all of Italy. This wealth also brought with it great culture, so there are many musical fests year-round, but none more important than the Puccini Opera Festival each summer. Puccini was born in Lucca.
Activities and Excursions
Duomo – This cathedral features a Pisan Romanesque style façade as well as several small carved columns. There is an interesting Byzantine crucifix on display in the interior as well as a masterpiece by Sienese sculptor Jacopo della Quercia entitled Tomb of Ilaria del Carretto.
Lucca Palazzo Ducale – The former palace has been for centuries the seat of power and government in Lucca. Now this magnificent complex houses a history of the city through time as well as different temporary art exhibits.
Passeggiata del Mura - This large and beautiful park is on top of the wide walls surrounding the city and is full of local citizens walking, jogging or kicking a ball around. It is directly on the ring of ramparts that encircle Lucca and is a wonderful place to mingle with the local residents on a sunny day. Do be aware that there are no railings, and the drop is almost 40 feet!
Must do: Luminara di Santa Croce on September 13 is the principal event of the year in Lucca and part of a series of festivals during September. A wooden crucifix figure is carried along the streets of the old town centre illuminated by thousands of small candles. Breathtaking.
Restaurants
Buca di S. Antonio, located in a rustic former inn near the church of San Michele, it is Lucca’s most famous traditional restaurant. They have been in business for 225 years, so they must be doing something right!
All’Olivo, has excellent food and a lovely outdoor tent area during warmer months.
Ristorante Vipore, located 10 minutes from Lucca in the hills. On a sunny day, nothing is better than eating outside here with its lovely view of Lucca.
Trattoria da Leo, a warm and inviting place, animated by locals. This is a typical Lucchese restaurant, not expensive, where you can taste the classical Lucchese dishes like Pappa al Pomodoro, Zuppa alla Frantoiana (a vegetable soup thickened with bread,) Pollo Fritto con Verdure Miste Fritte (fried chicken with fried vegetables) or the more typical Cotechino con Fagioli all'Uccelletto, (a fat, boiled sausage with white beans in tomato sauce), Cipolline al Forno (little roasted onions) and Finocchi alla Parmigiana (fennel with Parmigiano cheese.)
Ristorante La Cecca, about 8 km south of Lucca along the old Pisa road, follow the signs. It is on the left. Some of the best food in Lucca area, popular with the locals, try their tortelli with ragu and their lamb chops.
Markets in Lucca
General Market, Via dei Bacchettoni by the eastern wall. Wed. & Sat. Food, clothes, flowers, household goods
Antiques Market, Piazza San Martino. Third weekend of the month.
Craft Market, Piazza San Giusto. Last weekend of the month.
