Top Places to See
Lucca:
Lucca is a delightful, graceful city near the coast in northern Tuscany not far from Pisa. Rich in history, culture, beauty and music, Lucca is the birthplace of opera composer Puccini. Originally a Roman city (you can go into one if the city’s piazza’s and see its circular shape from when it was a colisseum), Lucca was later the capital of Tuscany.
Now Lucca is known for its medieval double walls, topped by a park and wide promenade where people stroll, bicycle and view the surrounding mountains. Also think of Lucca for antiques, high quality olive oil, elegant shops and restaurants, and some of Italy's finest grand villas and gardens (open to the public).
Duomo – This cathedral features a Pisan Romanesque style façade as well as several small carved columns. There is a very interesting Byzantine crucifix on display in the interior as well as a masterpiece by Sienese sculptor Jacopo della Quercia entitled Tomb of Ilaria del Carretto.
Lucca Palazzo Ducale – The former palace has been for centuries the seat of power and government in Lucca. Now this magnificent complex houses a history of the city through time as well as different temporary art exhibits.
Passeggiata del Mura - This large and beautiful park is on top of the wide walls surrounding the city and is full of local citizens walking, jogging or kicking a ball around. It is directly on the ring of ramparts that encircle Lucca and is a wonderful place to mingle with the local denizens on a sunny day. Do be aware that there are no railings, and the drop is almost 40 feet!
Luminara di Santa Croce on September 13 is the principal event of the year in Lucca and part of a series of festivals during September. A wooden crucifix figure is carried along the streets of the old town centre illuminated by thousands of small candles.
Puccini Festival takes place during the summer by the sea and in the fall in Lucca. There are many wonderful operatic events in different locales throughout the city.
Local Markets:
Lucca:
- General Market: Via dei Bacchettoni by the eastern wall. Wednesday and Saturday. Food, clothes, flowers, household goods
- Antiques Market: Piazza San Martino. Third weekend of the month.
- Craft Market: Piazza San Giusto. Last weekend of the month.
Camaiore: Nice food market and most local shops open onto the street with sidewalk sales on Friday mornings.
Forte dei Marmi: Great clothing market on Wednesday mornings (until 1 pm) and on Sundays in the summer
Viareggio: Good clothing and produce market every Thursday morning
Pisa:
The Leaning Tower: Construction began on the tower in 1174. When the tower had reached its third story, work was stopped because it had started sinking into the ground. It remained untouched for 90 years, and was finally completed with the addition of the belfry in the mid 1400’s. Restored in 2001, you can once again climb the 294 steps which rise around the inner side of the tower walls. You must take the obligatory picture “holding up the tower”.
Battistero - A lovely Gothic baptistery, standing across from the Duomo. The acoustics inside are fabled; ask one of the ticket takers if he will sing for you so you can experience them firsthand.
Palio of San Ranieri commemorates the patron saint of Pisa. The four districts of Pisa compete in a boat race on the Arno. The night before, a famous Luminara includes thousands of candles illuminating the river and fireworks at midnight.
Viareggio:
Viareggio features nice wide beaches and a family atmosphere, versus Forte dei Marmi, which has more of a chic feel to it.
Viareggio also has a fun Carnival, first held in 1873, it is now one of the most famous pre-Lent carnivals in the world (OK, it’s not up to par with the celebrations in Rio and in Venice, but it still is fun, albeit at a chilly time of the year!) It takes place in February and March depending on when Mardi Gras occurs and features huge paper-maché floats that parade along the city’s seaside promenades. You’ll also discover musical comedies in the local dialect, special Carnival menus, masked balls and a huge array of sporting events.
Florence:
Florence, the capital city of Tuscany, IS the Renaissance. Everywhere you look you’ll marvel at its architecture, art, culture and history. It is about an hour by train from Lucca.
If you want to know the ins and outs of Florence, buy one of the thousands of books written about the city.
Of course, you won’t be the only ones discovering Florence, which is one of the reasons A Season Away suggests savoring this marvelous city in the off-season, if possible, when the crowds thin out and you can pick up on the “vibe” of this city.
Some “musts” are: Michelangelo's David in the Accademia, the Duomo, Campanile and Bapistry, the museum of the works of the Duomo, the Palazzo Vecchio, the Bargello, San Marco with Fra Angelica's frescos, Santa Croce, and San Miniato, not to mention the Uffizi Gallery, Ponte Vecchio, Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens.
As far as shopping goes, Florence is known for its leather, lace, linens, Florentine paper and paper products, and, of course, its wine and food. There are no bargains anymore, but you can certainly marvel at the craftsmanship of the Italian ateliers and know it can’t be replicated.
Siena:
A trip to Tuscany wouldn’t be complete without spending time in Siena, the hillside town about an hour south of Florence and about 1.5 hours from Lucca. A former trading post and stopover for pilgrims to Rome over the ages, Siena still retains a medieval flair, probably best exhibited in the centuries-old Palio horse race held twice each summer on the town square, Piazza del Campo.
The Palio is a traditional medieval horse race run around the Piazza each year on July 2 and August 16. This event is attended by large crowds, and is widely televised. Seventeen city neighborhoods vie for the trophy: a painted flag, or Palio bearing an image of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Ten of the seventeen neighborhoods run in each Palio in an intense, ribald race for bragging honors.
Outside of the Palio times, the Piazza del Campo is regarded as one of the most beautiful civic spaces in Europe and is the heartbeat of the city. As with many medieval cities, over time many streets were constructed leading to it. Since Siena is built on a hill, plan to wear comfortable shoes and go up and down many steps to get anywhere.
Most of the mostly Gothic homes and buildings on the narrow streets are colored in the reddish brown color known as burnt siena.
Duomo - One of the finest Romanesque cathedrals in Italy with a beautifully detailed façade. The gold mosaics are 18th century restorations and in beautiful condition.
Cripta - Discovered during renovation of the Duomo, this fascinating burial area is now open to the public.
Museo dell’Opera Metropolitan (adjacent to the Duomo) - Sculptures from Pisano as well as a Donatello Madonna and Child. There is also a fine view from the tower inside the museum.
The Medicean Fortress houses the Enoteca Italiana and the Sinea Jazz School, with courses and concerts all year long and a major festival during the International Siena Jazz Master Classes at the end of July and into early August. Over two weeks more than 30 concerts and jam sessions are held in the two major town squares, on the terrace in front of the Enoteca, in the gardens of the Contrade clubs, and in numerous historical towns and villages of the Siena province.